What Is Comedogenic? Pore-Clogging Ingredients and How to Spot Them
"Comedogenic" describes an ingredient's tendency to clog pores, contributing to blackheads, whiteheads, and breakouts. Not every oil or moisturizing ingredient is equally comedogenic — the tendency varies quite a bit from ingredient to ingredient. This article covers how the commonly used rating scale works, examples of ingredients that tend to clog pores versus those that don't, and how to spot them on an ingredient list.
What does the 0-5 rating scale mean?
Comedogenicity is often described using a rough 0 (unlikely to clog) to 5 (highly likely to clog) scale, based on animal studies and clinical observation. But this scale comes from older research and limited test conditions — it's a rough guide, not a guarantee. Real-world skin response depends heavily on how much of an ingredient is used, the formula as a whole, and individual factors, especially for oily, combination, or acne-prone skin. Treat the numbers as a reference point rather than an absolute rule.
Examples of clogging and non-clogging ingredients
- Relatively high comedogenic potential (as a rough guide): Coconut oil (Cocos Nucifera Oil, roughly a 4), Isopropyl Myristate / Isopropyl Palmitate (roughly a 5), lanolin, cocoa butter, wheat germ oil, algae extract, and similar ingredients.
- Ingredients generally considered non-clogging: hyaluronic acid (Sodium Hyaluronate), glycerin, and many silicone-based ingredients (such as Dimethicone).
This is worth paying extra attention to if you have oily, combination, or acne-prone skin — but for dry or mature skin, an oil with some comedogenic potential often isn't an issue at all. Prioritize how your own skin actually responds over the general rating.
Spotting it on the ingredient list (INCI)
Check the ingredient list on the back of the package for these terms to get a sense of an oil or emollient's clogging potential.
- Look for the full INCI names of oils and emollients, such as "Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil," "Isopropyl Myristate," "Isopropyl Palmitate," "Lanolin," "Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter," and "Wheat Germ Oil."
- Since ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, one appearing near the top of the list is more likely to have a meaningful effect on your skin.
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